Buongiorno Venezia

Peter Gabriel’s charity concert (in support of the non-profit, independent, non-partisan association Emergency) took place last Friday in St. Mark’s Square. Earlier, on 5 July, Italian artist Franco Battiato had also performed to benefit Emergency. Read Gabriel’s tour diary about th e Venice concert at http://www.petergabriel.com/live/tourdiary/
Unfortunately, Venetians never miss a chance to show the world how shameless they are. During Gabriel’s and Battiato’s concerts, whose profits will be used to build hospitals for war victims, the cafes in St. Mark’s Square seized the opportunity to charge an average of 30 euros for a drink (including the show… and “what a show”), obviously saving on cost of their own performers yet without making a contribution of their own to Emergency. Mr. Gabriel and Mr. Battiato will be glad to know that they also contributed to such “needy” people’s wellbeing.

Tourism costs the city of Venice 20-25 million euro per year. So the mayor has asked for government permission to re-introduce the tax on accommodations. It’s an old battle which, until now, has been won by the hoteliers. Mayor Cacciari is betting on professional marketing and management for the most traditional events, so that money is obtained… professionally (”We are not begging for money”). Even the upcoming Redeemer’s Feast will have an artistic director. The celebration will last for several days and conclude on the evening of Saturday, 14 July. The traditional and noisy fireworks will be replaced by a light and music show presented to admiring spectators who will watch from onboard well-coordinated boats in the basin. Apparently, it will be vastly different than the traditional feast, which has consisted of a colourful hodge podge of activities.

the strange story of a new santa claus delivering a present to Venice, Italy by mistake - instead of Venice, Florida. misunderstandings and odd situation, invented characters that do not look so invented: this builds up the plot of “Robert star in Venice”, illustrated story by Daniele Scarpa Kos on exhibit in Venice (ITALY!), Fondamenta Rio Marin 2427/a (Ponte delle Latte) from 6 to 22 July (open 9.30-11.30 PM monday to saturday). Very creative painter and illustrator, in the writer’s humble opinion.

the messy (santa) Robert Claus is able to communicate with Venetians using the only words he knows in italian, that is the lyrics of the song “Con te partirò” (remember it? by Andrea Bocelli). The best part of the story, for the gossipy and humor people, is maybe the one where a strange “El Barba” (The Beard in an unlikely  spanish-italian) builds bridges everywhere because “there’s a bridge for every problem”, and creates “Bridge and Breakfast” accommodations. (Does this guy remind us of someone? :-))

the quantity of sp.m messages we receive is.. insane. unpublished, obviously. mentioning the Hilton worsened things, it looks like the little Paris has got a lot of fans not only for her  music.

venice is getting nearly as hot as the Sahara desert. a hat is highly recommended when you stroll during the warmest time of the day (around 1-2 p.m). i walked and sweated in order to reach a little “osteria” i hadn’t visited for years. and there it was, near campo S.Giovanni e Paolo, (Venice’s main hospital), “Osteria da A….”. (still wondering whether to type in its full name or not): it was still looking very typical and old fashioned, looking family-run, the place you feel like at home and where you expect a cheap bill. I breathed with relief, had a fish and some grilled vegetables, heard of tons of reservations made by phone thru a couple of hotels’ concierges. I hated that, it sounded like an alarm. Well, 25 euro was an exaggeration for what i had, supposing the food would have been better. i was so disappointed, not for the money but because i had such a good memory of the place. i made a point to open a personal “black list”, and i’ sorry to say this deserves listing in spite of the personnel’s kindness. btw, it’s 4 a.m. as you can see, i had not an easy digestion. Always give people a second chance, but listen to me, do not trust concierges too much, next time..

collecting opinions about the best things and innovations of this Biennale.

5 votes: the floating bar at the Giardini (!!)
7 votes: the Italian pavillion
3 votes: the Welsh pavillion
4 votes Bill Viola at San Gallo church

-1 the German pavillion (organization problems??)

add yours if you wish

this week’s issue of Buongiorno Venezia talks of:

•  Biennale opens under the “stars”
• Iron Maiden and Pearl Jam: the week of rock
• The Ship of Tolerance: a little child shall lead them
• A stolen Tiepolo discovered in a country villa
• An international gathering for Carlo Goldoni
• Beuys vs. Barney
   

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well, regular blogging takes time and i so not have much in these days… but i have not forgotten about you. the opening of the new Hilton Hotel in Venice (the former Stucky mills) was scheduled in the same days of the Biennale exhibit’s opening. result: much excitement, while the more conservative people were wondering how much Paris Hilton’s golden parents would pay to have a quieter daughter, whose last exploit was driving without a licence.

this week’s issue of Buongiorno Venezia talks of:

• Speak to them, angels of tourism
• Fenice’s woes: playing for time… and money
• The six million euro man: Palazzo Grassi’s debt brushed off
• American Committee “saves” San Zaccaria Church
• Callas undressed
  
   

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i’m not sure that Cat Bauer is just a woman. or a red Cat. or a novelist. i think she IS the living contemporary American dream: leave all behind you, come to italy, enjoy life and be yourself. too bad that we italians are not always so good at being italian, and so proud.

9 years in italy. she landed in venice without speaking or understanding a word of italian o venetian dialect. without knowing anyone. sometimes people do that, and not because they are crazy. Cat is so honest as to admit it: it was a challenge. finding herself crying in the middle of St. Mark’s after some months, was part of the game. very unplesant, but necessary to get stronger. and to fall madly in love with this controversial town.

after 9 years in venice, Cat gave a presentation of her last novel at the Mondadori bookshop (the most fashionable and important bookshop in venice and one of the biggest publishing houses in italy). in english. and there were people listening at her. i’m not sure i would have bet this would have happened, when i first met the red Cat, about 8 years ago. but it happened. Cat’s  character - the sixteen-year-old Harley Columba - will fly to venice and live here in the world of contemporary artists for… some novels. we’re eager to read her stories.

btw: Cat is no more isolated, she’s now one of the “local people in the know”. her story is very encouraging to the ones who email us about their wishes and the ones who are just beginning to follow their American-Italian dream. it’s not so important that you know “someone” in venice: it’s important “whom” you know. And “yourself ” is a very good beginning.

Read more on Harley’s Ninth by Cat Bauer

if you happen to walk at the Zattere this week, along the canale della Giudecca, you may come into the shootings of Commissario Brunetti’s mysteries. If you do not know the  popular stories of the detective created by Donna Leon, have a look for instance at Death at La Fenice: A Commissario Guido Brunetti Mystery